Category Archives: Bogota

Museum of Gold!

Located in downtown Bogotá, this museum is a must-see for anyone coming to Columbia and/or South America.

Mike and Sarah in Front of the Museum of Gold
Sarah and I in our 90’s

Following seven weeks in Columbia with almost zero information on how indigenous peoples lived, our thirst to learn was high!

Soldier frogs

This museum houses the largest collection of South and Central American gold artifacts in the world, with over 55,000 pieces. Not just a bling palace, this museum provides a comprehensive history of the evolution of the use of gold, copper, platinum, and silver, plus pottery dating back to 4,000 B.C.  And the source of this technology was the Bogota plateau, here in Colombia.

Nightmare before Christmas-y?

Comparing technologies between Native American civilizations in the Southwestern United States to those in South America was personally fascinating. First created in at least 4,000 B.C., pottery in Columbia evolved almost 5,000 years before pottery in the areas now labled the Southwest, USA (A.D. 750 and A.D. 800).

A very basic knowledge of metallurgy was in place by around 1,000 B.C., mostly consisted of melting ores, heating and cooling them to temper the metal, and hammering the metals into the desired shape. Other metals such as copper, platinum, and silver. were incorporated with gold to produce more desireable properties, such as durability, flexability, shininess, etc.

Mischevious mouse: The personality of the artist came through loud and clear with some of these pieces.
Pottery in Columbia was first produced in 4,000 B.C. (a.C. = antes de Cristo, or before Christ), almost 5 millenia before potery in the Southwestern United States.

So why go here? With the price of admission coming in at a staggering $0.86, the people-watching and the overpriced roasted chile corn out front more than paid the price. Given that we stayed for over two hours and never made it past the 2nd of 4 floors should give you an indication that there is something for everyone. Do not pass this one up!

See the Museo del Oro website:

More of our favorite pieces with character:

Old man pottery
South American Golumn from The Hobbit?
Big Foot Frog

Tembici: public bikes in Bogota

A travelers guide to the Bogota Tembici system.
Tembici bikes to ride Bogota! Biking to Simon Bolivar Parque (bigger than Central Park, New York…)

The public transportation system in Bogota, Columbia has grown to include a large bike lane network and a community rental bike system. Check out a bike using the app “Tembici” and rent an hour at a time up to 4 times a day: daily, monthly or yearly. From start to finish of registration and checking out a bike took ~10 minutes.

Compared to the Medellin bike system “Encicla,” which we were never able to figure out in part because engagement depends on a confirmation email, Tembici was super-easy. Several Bogota people stopped us and asked us how it worked, it’s that new.

Example station
  1. Download Tembici:
  2. Follow the registration instructions. Some will translate to English, some not.
  3. At this point, you will need a debit or credit card.
  4. We selected to pay the 9,900 COP to allow for multiple trips in a day, up 4 times a day an hour at a time. This is approximately $2 U.S. in October, 2022. We went overtime on one ride and were charged $4,400 COP (~$1 USD).
  5. Find a nearby station on the app’s map that has bikes and walk to it. See photos below.
  6. Unlock a bike by using your phone to scan the QR code on the handlebar
  7. Lift the bike out of the magnet lock near the top of the fork.
  8. If it doesn’t unlock, try again. Each bike took a couple tries. Some bikes are not available for some reason even though they are docked in front of you.
  9. Ride your bike around and pay attention to the running time on your app, find a station along your route to return your bike or dock and release your bike again to extend your time.
  10. Check your bike back in when done and review your ride. There is a red wrench on the handlebar, if the bike is in poor repair, press to indicate that the bike needs service.
  11. Hack: there is a handle on the back of the seat that helps to lift the bike’s front magnet into the docking magnet lock.
  12. Helmets are not provided in this system, so either bring your own or do without.
Find the station with bikes close to you. Note that the stations are not throughout Bogota. The map indicates the barrios currently served by the system. I wasn’t sure if it will be expanding in the future. I bet the article attached at the bottom will illuminate.
Docked bike, ready for you!
Open app, click on the station where you are, scan QR code on the bike you want. Check brakes, seat and tires before you select your bike.
Watch for the sound and green light on right under the “✔️” showing the bike is unlocked after scanning.
This live map on the Tembici app shows open slots where you can dock your bike after your ride.

See even more detail of the Tembici system including adaptive bikes for rent in this El Espectador review of the system in Spanish:

Thanks for reading our post. We are traveling through South America in 2022-2023 with our family and dog. We are posting information on systems and places we discover to document not only for ourselves but other travellers as well. Please comment with helpful hints or updates you learn about Tembici. Ciao!

Columbia is no place for Cruise Control: an Americans insights on driving in Columbia

So, you are planning on driving in Columbia! It is possible but it may not be for everyone. Our family rented a car in Bogota and we have been driving to sights of interests with our children and dog. Here are our observations.

If just arriving in Columbia, pick a couple busy street corners to watch traffic patterns. Watch how drivers behave when the streets are congested and when the streets are clear. How do they avoid bikes, pedestrians, other cars, buses, Semis? Do this before you drive, especially in a bigger city.

Remember, the Columbian drivers are driving correctly and it is you, the American, who will need to change to survive your trip without accident.

So, how do you drive in the multiuser roads of Columbia? One Columbian friend said drivers in Columbia are always alert, you can’t use cruise control. You need a foot ready for a brake at any moment. In general, bikes, pedestrians, dogs and horses are going to keep their path of travel with a gentle swerve to avoid being hit by your vehicle. You, too, will give a few inches so passing is safe.

Motorbikes move around you like rivulets. Motorcycles will fill any gap in traffic on your right, left, on your bumper, and you will be jealous of motorbikes in traffic jams. Motorcycles sometimes travel in packs on highways to help signaling the time for safe passing around cars and trucks. Sadly, the one fatality we witnessed was of a motorcyclist in the highway so, the impression that motorcycles always know what they are doing can be wrong. As a driver of a car you must always be alert to the possibility that a motorcycle is close.

Turning into traffic: you need to see the flow of vehicles like a river. As soon as the current slows, you join the river. In the States, you might wait for complete permission to merge by someone stopping or moving over. That’s just not going to happen in Columbia. It only takes once waiting to merge like an American to know you can’t go anywhere like that. You can trust that other drivers do see you and expect you to make a move to merge after you have made your intentions clear by signaling and moving in the direction you want to turn. It’s not aggressive, just join the flow.

Passing on the highway: The slowest vehicles on the highway are the Semis.  A left turn signal when you are behind a large truck on the highway means it’s probably safe to pass. The truck driver needs to know you are wanting to pass by seeing you in his mirror. If you do not take the opportunity, the driver behind you will likely grab it. Or, also you may get honked at as if to, “What are you doing? Idiot?” The motorcycles below might pass the smaller bus if the smaller bus doesn’t make his move to pass when signaled.

A small bus waiting to pass a Semi on a mountainous highway in Columbia. The motorcycles are in position to do the same. After they pass, we will tailgate on the left bumper of the Semi and wait for a left turn signal from the Semi.
People catching a ride after the Semi slowed through a toll booth. A group of people ran to catch this ride by throwing their bags up and catching the rope across the bed of the truck. The driver seemed not to mind, he even stopped to buy a drink from the vendor standing in the street as if to let the riders settle before getting up to speed.

We took toll roads when traveling longer distances between cities. Tolls ranged from 10,000 COP to 13,500 COP. It’s not essential to have exact change but it’s smart to have smaller bills and coins to make change easier. We didn’t see a credit option, so bring your cash.

Navigating: If you are using Google to navigate Columbia, you are in good hands with a few exceptions. When navigating to smaller towns, ask a local which road to take into town. Google maps will send you up crazy roughs roads that fool Google as drive-able because motorcyclists with phones pass over them quickly and drive the data to appear safe. 

Also, Google maps time estimates are very optimistic even on highways. We learned to double the travel time due to accidents, rough roads, toll booth slow downs, construction and other more random events. All that being said, the highways are really nice except for the sudden deep potholes. Again, Columbia is no place for cruise control.

One of the nicest highways is Highway 45. We also drove 50 and 60 which had smooth pavement.

If you have the experience of driving at night, perhaps because you trusted Google’s travel estimate, you will find no lights on smaller roads. So, if driving small mountain roads at night, it’s good to try to stick to the back of a commuter bus like the red one below. If you do, you will have better vision around corners and will go faster. Also, traffic coming the other way stops for the bus on narrow passes. You will be amazed at how nimble these buses are through rough roads and sharp curves.

On small mountain roads, large vehicles make their way. Passing requires stopping and inching to pass. In person, it’s very loud with pumping air brakes and shocks working hard.

So, yes, it’s possible to drive all over Columbia. It takes a driver who can be alert at all times and a second person to navigate. In our case, it sometimes took 2 people finding better routes on Google and one driver making as much time as possible. So, plan well and go enjoy!